Archaeology in the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia

Tuesday, January 7, 2025: Depart home

Wednesday, January 8: Arrive Riyadh, Saudi Arabia
Upon arrival in Riyadh at King Khalid International Airport (RUH), clear Saudi customs and immigration. You will be transferred to our hotel, and have the balance of the day at leisure. Overnight at the 4-star Rosh Rayhaan by Rotana hotel for two nights.

Thursday, January 9: Riyadh city tour: National Museum, Diriyah, Welcome lunch, Masmak Fortress, Dira Souq
After breakfast at our hotel, gather for an introductory meeting and then set out with our local guide to explore the city. Riyadh, meaning “The Gardens” in Arabic, is Saudi Arabia’s capital and primary business hub. Over the past century, the city has transformed from a mud-walled town of 20,000 inhabitants into one of the Middle East’s great metropolises, with a population now numbering more than 7.6 million. Much of the traditional architecture once found in Riyadh has been lost to development, but traces still remain, especially around Masmak Fort and Diriyah, a historic town just outside the city limits that we visit this morning. Our first visit is to the National Museum of Saudi Arabia, featuring eight halls focusing on topics such as pre-Islamic Arabia, the Prophet Muhammad, the Hajj pilgrimage, and the history of the modern Saudi state. Next, explore Diriyah on Riyadh’s northwestern outskirts. Its central Al Turaif District, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was the original seat of power of the Al Saud dynasty. The citadel and surrounding palaces, built in the Najdi architectural style characteristic of the central Arabian Peninsula, have undergone an extensive restoration, transforming them into an open-air museum.

After a welcome lunch at a nearby restaurant, we drive to Masmak Fortress, built in 1865 to serve as a military garrison for the army of the House of Rasheed, the main rivals of the Al Sauds. It was captured by King Abdulaziz Ibn Saud in 1902, marking the birth of the Third Saudi Kingdom, which continues to rule today. We will stop at a local souq or two, where we will be introduced to traditional Saudi clothing, including how the pieces are made and the occasions for which each piece is suitable. At some point today, we will catch a glimpse of the exterior of the 99-story Kingdom Centre, Riyadh’s most iconic skyscraper. Dinner this evening will be at a local restaurant. (B,L,D)

Friday, January 10: Ushaiger | Unayzah Market | Buraydah
This morning we set out on a scenic drive to Buraydah, stopping along the way in Ushaiger. Located about 2.5 hours west of Riyadh, Ushaiger is one of the oldest settlements in a desert region dotted with oases, and it is frequently cited as Saudi Arabia’s most beautiful village. The slow-paced, small-town way of life here has remained much the same for centuries, making Ushaiger a window into the past—and a striking contrast to Riyadh. Preserved and protected away from the more modern side of town, the Ushaiger Heritage Village is the star attraction here. Wander the alleys and streets of the well-preserved village, marveling at the traditional architecture.

After lunch at a local restaurant we continue on to Unayzah, an agricultural area that produces wheat and barley of various strains, as well as grapes, grapefruits, lemons, leeks, mandarins, oranges, pomegranates, and dates. Experience firsthand its friendly, welcoming population as you wander the alleys of the Unayzah Market, featuring handicrafts, handspun wool textiles, spices, tea, and sweets. We continue on to Buraydah, which was historically an oasis town famous for its fruit. Today, agriculture is still important to the city, with wheat and citrus both major crops. Buraydah is also a center of trade for two quintessential Arabian commodities: dates and camels. Check-in to our hotel and then gather for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Radisson Blu Hotel Buraydah. (B,L,D)

Saturday, January 11: Buraydah: Camel market | Fayd | Hail
Enjoy an early morning visit to Buraydah’s camel market, perhaps the largest on Earth, featuring thousands of camels as well as goats and sheep. Stroll through, admiring the animals, marketgoers, and traditions. Next we head northwest across the desert to Hail, stopping along the way at Fayd. A major archaeological site located at the halfway point between Baghdad and Mecca, Fayd was for over 500 years perhaps the most important oasis on the major pilgrimage route in the Muslim world. It has a massive citadel, cisterns where pilgrims replenished their water supplies, a mosque, and many houses and shops. The new Fayd visitors’ center provides background on the site and area.

Also on our drive we will see the Shammar Mountains, comprising two imposing ranges in the deserts between Buraydah and Hail, which make for a spectacular sight due to their extreme ruggedness and the contrast they provide to the flat deserts around them. Arrive in Hail, an agricultural city with a population of approximately 600,000. The wheat produced on surrounding irrigated lands is important to the kingdom and a significant source of revenue for the city. In times past, Hail was a major rest stop and trading center for pilgrims on the way to Mecca. Check-in to our hotel, and then gather for dinner. Schedule permitting, we may be joined at dinner by a local guest with archaeological connections. Overnight at the 5-star Millennium Hail Hotel. (B,L,D)

Sunday, January 12: Jubbah | Sakaka
This morning we drive overland to Sakaka, stopping along the way in Jubbah to view its spectacular prehistoric petroglyphs, which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Large sandstone outcroppings are covered with carved images depicting more than 4,000 human and animal figures, dating as far back as 6000 B.C. They are astonishing both for their skillful execution—including the use of perspective—and for the scenes they portray. One notable phenomenon they reveal is the range of wildlife that flourished in the wetter climate of the time. The area was the site of a lake that attracted lion, ibex, gazelle, camel, wolf, and auroch (wild ancestor of domesticated cattle) of ancient times. After lunch, we drive through Al Nufud Al Kabir, also known as Al Nefud, one of the Arabian Peninsula’s most picturesque deserts. Its great crescents of red sand occupy a giant oval depression 180 miles long and 140 miles wide. Arrive in Sakaka, just north of Al Nefud and just south of the Iraqi and Jordanian borders. Olives and dates are grown around the town, but the main highlights here are the archaeological sites surrounding it, many of which we will visit over the next two days. Check-in to our hotel, and then gather for dinner. Overnight at the 3-star Al Nusl hotel for two nights. (B,L,D)

Monday, January 13: Sakaka’s environs: Rajajil Standing Stones, Sakaka Rock Carvings, Majidia Horse Farm | Sakaka
Spend the day exploring the archaeological sites around Sakaka, beginning with the Rajajil Standing Stones, where 6,000 years ago a group of people inhabiting the Arabian Peninsula erected a series of approximately 50 heavy stone columns. The groups of stones are arranged in a roughly circular pattern and, while their original purpose and appearance have been lost to time, it is likely they were used in religious ceremonies of some sort. After lunch at a local restaurant we continue on to the Sakaka Rock Carvings, ancient carvings in sandstone rocks that were discovered in 2018 by researchers. Our last visit of the day is to the Majidia Horse Farm to learn more about Saudi equestrianism and the role of horses in local culture. Though famous for its camels, Saudi Arabia also has a long history of horsemanship and horses are a hugely important animal here. Return to our hotel in Sakaka and gather for dinner. (B,L,D)

Tuesday, January 14: Sakaka’s environs: Za’abal Castle, Dumat al Jandal | Tabuk
Explore more of the history around Sakaka before we head overland to Tabuk. Za’abal Castle is scenically perched atop a rocky hill just outside of Sakaka. Most of the castle dates to around 400 years ago, but the site has been used since at least Nabataean times, millennia ago. Date palms and old neighborhoods ring the castle. Dumat al Jandal is a series of ruins surrounding an oasis in the desert not far from Sakaka. There is evidence of settlements here stretching back as far as 1000 B.C. A few of the main sights here include the 7th-century Umar Mosque, the imposing Marid Castle, and the historical neighborhood known as the Al Dar’i Quarter. The latter is a relatively well-preserved example of an Arabian town’s residential areas in the 15th century. After lunch at a local restaurant we continue on to the city of Tabuk, not far from the Jordanian border in the far northwest of Saudi Arabia. Its northerly location gives the city some of Saudi Arabia’s coolest winters, and it occasionally even snows in the nearby mountains. The city played an important role in the early Islamic era, and later on it served as an important stop on the Ottoman Hejaz Railway. Check-in to our hotel, and then gather for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Swiss in Tabuk hotel for three nights. (B,L,D)

Wednesday, January 15: Tabuk: Tabuk Station of Hejaz Railway, Tabuk Castle
This morning we explore Tabuk. Our first visit is to Tabuk Station, which brings to life the adventurous spirit of the Hejaz Railway, which linked Damascus with Medina, transforming arduous pilgrimages that once took 45 days into manageable journeys of just a few days. This small museum is a tribute to the ingenuity that bridged vast deserts and united distant cities. The 16th-century Tabuk Castle is also one of the main highlights of the city. It has been preserved and is now a museum open to the public. Nearby are some local souks that are worth exploring and provide an opportunity for women to purchase garments appropriate for the upcoming visit to Medina. After lunch at a local restaurant, we will return to our hotel to enjoy an afternoon lecture. (B,L,D)

Thursday, January 16: Hisma | Madyan & Mughair Shuwayb | Tabuk
Today we head toward the Neom region, which is being developed into a very modern city, stopping off at Hisma to admire its beautiful, monumental landscapes that are composed of sandstone and granite massifs. The area has been inhabited by humans for millennia, a fact attested to by the many prehistoric and early Islamic-period petroglyphs that can be found on the rock walls. We will enjoy a picnic lunch during our travels today. Continue along the western shore of Tabuk Province to Madyan, an ancient region with a main city of the same name where, according to the Quran and the Bible, Moses lived in exile for 10 years. Madyan is also noteworthy for at one point being occupied by the ancient Nabataeans, who built a necropolis, known as Mughair Shuwayb, into a hillside. It is a marvel, with sophisticated architectural elements set in a novel location in the town called al Bad’a within the Neom region project. Return to our hotel in Tabuk and gather later for dinner. (B,L,D)

Friday, January 17: Tayma | Al Ula
Set out this morning toward Al Ula, the jewel of Saudi Arabia, stopping at Tayma along the way. The ancient oasis city of Tayma is located on the edge of Al Nufud Al Kabir Desert. Once an important stop on the trade route from the western Arabian coast to the Nile Valley, Tayma has been inhabited since the Bronze Age and has produced significant archaeological finds, including Egyptian hieroglyphs and pre-Islamic palaces. New visitors’ centers provide information and the chance to learn about the site’s past. After lunch we continue on to the town of Al Ula, with a present-day population of some 5,500, which has been inhabited for the last 7,000 years as evidenced by carvings found in and around the area. In 2017 the Royal Commission for Al Ula (RCU) was established by the Saudi government with the goals of investigating, preserving, and developing the many archaeological sites in the area. In the years since, the infrastructure in Al Ula has developed rapidly, allowing travelers to more easily see sites that were until recently practically inaccessible. Please note that for sites that are under the control of the RCU (e.g., Tayma, Dadan, Jebel Ikmah, Al Ula Old Town, Hegra), visiting time slots are shared and limited, so our AIA group might be in larger touring vehicles with other, non-AIA travelers for site visits. This is because territory access is restricted to RCU-operated vehicles. Check-in to our hotel in Al Ula and then gather for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Shaden Resort for three nights. (B,L,D)

Saturday, January 18: Maraya | Dadan | Jebel Ikmah Inscriptions | Al Ula Old Town | Elephant Rock | Al Ula
Spend a full day exploring the area around Al Ula. Start with one of the best photo opportunities of the trip as we visit the Maraya cultural center, which is used as a concert hall but its spectacular mirrored, exterior walls, which celebrate the surrounding desertscape, make it truly compelling. “Maraya” holds a special significance: in Arabic, it means “mirror” or “reflection” – a fitting name for what may be the largest mirror-clad building in the world. We continue on to the ancient city of Dadan, built nearly 3,000 years ago. Its most notable features are the Lion Tombs, hewn from rock high above the desert floor, a remarkable feat even with modern equipment. Carved lions give the tombs their modern names. We visit the nearby gorge at Jebel Ikmah, whose steep walls have been used by locals for thousands of years to write inscriptions in various languages, including Dadanitic, Aramaic, and Thamudic. Some are carved from the stone and others are etched as petroglyphs. The inscriptions have not all been translated, but it is clear that some are as simple as names, akin to ancient graffiti, while others are notes left for travelers and even prayers.

We will also explore Al Ula’s Old Town, which thrived as a stop on the pilgrimage route from Damascus to Mecca from the 12th century well into the 20th. Remnants of some 900 mudbrick homes and 400 shops stand within the town’s walls, along with a restored Friday mosque where it is believed the Prophet Muhammad once prayed. Towering above it all is Musa bin Nusayr Castle, Al Ula’s oldest surviving building, dating from the 10th century. Our final stop of the day will be to view Elephant Rock (Jebel al Fil, in Arabic), an immense, naturally formed, elephant-shaped rock in the desert near Al Ula. Dinner is at our hotel this evening. (B,L,D)

Sunday, January 19: Hegra | Harrat Al Uwayrid | Al Ula
Spend another day taking in the sites around Al Ula. From the 2^nd century B.C. until Roman conquest in A.D. 106, Hegra (also known as Madain Saleh) was the southernmost city of the Nabataean Kingdom and a thriving center of trade. Like Jordan’s famous Nabataean capital of Petra to the north, it was and remains a site of stunning, carved-stone tombs. The more than 100 rock-cut tombs here are fewer in number than what was found in Petra, but by and large they are in better condition and, unlike at Petra, many have inscriptions, providing rare clues about Nabataean people. Hegra was the first location in Saudi Arabia to be designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but it has only recently become readily accessible to international travelers. Visit a local farm and enjoy lunch. For the final stop of the day, we head up to volcanic Harrat Al Uwayrid, the region’s highest point, which provides a spectacular view of the Al Ula and Dedan oases and the surrounding landscape. The black rocks at the top and the views out over the oases are at their most spectacular as the sun is setting. Return to our hotel and gather this evening for dinner. Schedules permitting, some of the archaeologists involved at Al Ula may join us for dinner. (B,L,D)

Monday, January 20: Medina: Dar al Medina Museum, Mount Uhud
Set out this morning on a drive to Medina that will take about four hours. The holy city of Medina is a major Islamic pilgrimage site, visited alongside Mecca on the hajj pilgrimage that all Muslims aspire to make. The heart of the city is open only to Muslims, but the power of the place is tangible everywhere. Female visitors are encouraged to dress appropriately and be well covered. Pilgrims flock to the city, filling scores of high-rise hotels that dominate the downtown skyline. Enjoy lunch at a restaurant overlooking Masjid Al Nabawi (Prophet’s Mosque), which is accessible to visitors from the exterior only and from a distance. Only Muslims may enter the mosque, but it can be viewed from vantage points across the city. The Mosque houses the tomb of the Prophet Muhammad and can hold as many as a million occupants. Its ten towering minarets are conspicuous throughout Medina—particularly at night, when the mosque is aglow in light. Visit the Dar al Medina Museum (pending its re-opening), which documents the archaeology, culture, and heritage of the city that stretches back thousands of years. Stop at Mount Uhud, on the outskirts of the city, which provides an overview of the region and was the site of the Battle of Uhud, a critical event in Islamic history. Return to our hotel and then gather for dinner. Overnight at the 4-star Le Méridien Medina hotel. (B,L,D)

Tuesday, January 21: High-Speed Rail to Jeddah | Jeddah: Walking tour of Al Balad, Gabel Street Souq, Jeddah Corniche
Transfer to the railway station this morning for a two-hour trip to Jeddah via Saudi Arabia’s high-speed train. Upon arrival in Jeddah, we transfer to our hotel to check-in and enjoy a lunch of traditional Saudi favorites before visiting the Jeddah Balad. This historic center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and at its core is the newly renovated Beit Nassif, a museum and cultural center about the Kingdom’s history. Walk past hidden galleries and classic bazaars, appreciating how much of the architecture preserves the old Hejazi style, striking a contrast with the glitzier areas of the new town. Explore the Gabel Street Souq, a traditional market in the bustling heart of the old town. Vendors sell all sorts of local and regional produce, including spices, dates, handicrafts, honey, gold, and more. Afterwards drive up the Corniche, a long stretch of coast developed as a recreational area, with walkways, parks, swimming bays, playgrounds, sculpture parks, and cafés, and then return to our hotel. Dinner is on your own this evening. Overnight at the 4-star Radisson Blu Hotel Jeddah Corniche for two nights. (B,L)

Wednesday, January 22: Jeddah: Central Fish Market, Tayebat Museum, Farewell lunch, PM at leisure OR Optional visit to the House of Islamic Arts
Spend our final day in Saudi Arabia exploring Jeddah, the Middle East’s second-largest and second busiest trading seaport, beginning with the bustling Central Fish Market that has been a fixture here for centuries. Next, we tour the Tayebat Museum, which stands proudly in central Jeddah as a testament to traditional Hejazi (western Saudi Arabian) architecture and culture and features an open-air courtyard surrounded by historic buildings. Enjoy our final meal together at a farewell lunch. Then you may either choose to return to the hotel to get organized for your departure, or join an optional excursion to the new House of Islamic Arts, housed in a mall complex in northwest Jeddah, which includes an excellent selection of Islamic pieces in one exhibit and then other exhibits focus on the hajj routes and milestones, Mecca and Medina through the ages, Islamic science, and perhaps a newly arranged exhibit on costume. Dinner and the evening are on your own. (B,L)

Thursday, January 23: Fly home
You will be transferred to Jeddah’s King Abdulaziz International Airport (JED) for your flights homeward. (B)